What a catch! At last...

First Borroloola, then on to Bing Bong, and the only catch was a stone fish, one of Australia's most venomous killers. So we moved about 67 kms to Batten Point, 4x4 vehicle only with corrugation the size of little drains, and the phantom still got through. Had to weld the side mirror back on though, all good. 

On the first night the line kept on snapping, so I got serious and upped my tackle poundage. Then up came a ray, the same type that got our old friend Steve Irwin. Soon after that came the biggest fish I have ever caught in my life, and what a catch it was! OK, we still didn't get a feed but the catch, along with the excitement from the kids, was good enough for me. 

The next morning I got up and walked to the waters edge about 8 meters from the bus, and found fresh crocodile tracks on the sandy muddy bank right where I caught and released catch of the day. My friend the croc must have been watching me fight and land that fish all the time just waiting for his chance... Now I'll try to land him, lets see how I go with a chicken as bait, come on croc have a go....

P.S. Camerawoman more excited than I am - thanks Mum!

- D -

Phantom blending in.

Let the pictures speak for themselves: catch of the day. And some more...

Catch of my life.

Croc bait

Too heavy to release on my own... had to lever it in. 

Another NT danger...

N

Bing Bong's best catch, stonefish

Deadly

Nightly prowler

Good instinct

Left Isa, got to Camooweal and thought the drive wheel felt hotter than usual, so I checked the diff oil thinking it was low and not feeding up to the bearings, but that was all good. I turned around and went back the 189 kms to Isa, to be sure, to be sure, well the bearings were normal after getting Isa diesel to put their infra red thermometer on it. Hey it was a blessing in disguise because one tyre on the inside lazy wheel was starting to peel off, so I got them changed.
Oh and the price of a carton of xxxx in Camooweal is $60, that was another good reason to go back. And now I'm on the road to Borroloola I don't know why... I'm heading to Darwin anyway and have done this road many times up through Threeways, so I thought for an extra 150 kms we get to see this place that every one I've spoken to says is not worth the drive. They should not have said that, that's why I want to go there! And with a place along the coast from there called Bing Bong, that's got to be a s-s-seeeeeeeee, he, he, he.

- D -

Stitch in time saves nine.

Don't leave home without it! 

Isa strikes again

Air leak, yes an air leak... where, I don't know, but I must find it. This is the second time I'm in Isa with my family in 8 years, and both times we have had vehicle problems. Well the first one was understandable it was a Landrover, ha ha... and now a Denning, a true Queenslander.

What's happening is when on start up she takes longer to rise, on the open road its all good until I slow down. Once the revs are down for too long and I'm using the brakes the low air alarm comes on.....? I've been under the bus looking and can't find any leaks, but the door shutting valve seems to be leaking. I will disconnect it altogether, as we don't use it anyway. Whatever happens, don't break down in Mt Isa, all mechanics are too busy, or so they say..? With a bit of persistence I eventually found that the right hand rear brake booster hose was broken, and letting me down - in anyway you look at it.

We have stocked up and are ready for the long road to Borroloola. The engine is running great, gearbox perfect, tyres good, kids wonderful, wife recovering, and the air leak fixed, but I must leave you now to enter the Northern Territory. So until I have more whining to do, ta ta.

- D -

Can't mistaken this town for any other when you see this big chimney of the Hard times mines. 

The problem valve was located here.

Thank you Mount Isa!

A pub in the scrub with no beer

The road from Normanton to Concurry cannot be described as boring, as it constantly changes from double to single lane. You also have to be alert due to lots of road trains and caravans on the road, and with a chipped windscreen we should know! So by the time we saw a sign for Quamby hotel, some 40 kilometers before Cloncurry, we had had enough scary moments for the day, and thought this 'pub in the scrub' would offer us a refreshing break. But with Telstra phonebox and a fuel bowser and all, this was another pub with no beer....

The saloon doors were open and the pub still stood strong, and we could feel that this place had once been a lively pub with good old country music and some friendly chatter, but now there was nobody home. We didn't get a drink or a nice meal, but exploring around the old Quamby Hotel gave us a wonderful break from driving. And as soon as I got internet connection again, I had to do some research on this charming little pub that was originally built as a Customs House in 1860s, and operated as a hotel from 1920s. It had also been used as a staging post for Cobb & Co, thus the paintings of horses on the outside wall.

Chilling out at the pub in the scrub.

Quamby Hotel has some history to tell...

...and cars to drive.

The children loved exploring the ghost town of Quamby.

Rustic country look.

When driving from north, one would think this hotel is still open for business.

Some of the worst sections of the road...

...and better ones. Even then the learner driver managed to get a chipped windscreen, thanks to a passing roadtrain. 

Free camping with Mr Maintenance Man

We have lately come across some wonderful free camping sites. And not all of them are hidden in the bush either - unless you classify the town of Normanton as bush... We stayed a couple of nights between Karumba and Normanton right on the banks of Walker's Creek, doing some crocodile spotting, and just enjoying camping in the wilderness. There's no facilities there (except for an abandoned pit toilet), so it best suits self contained vehicles. On our second day camped beside the creek we saw freshwater crocodiles swimming up and down the creek, keeping the kids and us big people entertained. The camera battery was flat - of course - so we only got some blurry shots of 'something' floating around in the water, but they really were there, I swear!

Watching crocodiles and lighting camp fires doesn't seem to be enough for daddy the driver, so he often starts doing some maintenance on the bus. This time, it was the air conditioning fans at the back of the bus that had to go, and make room for more storage. I tend to think our 'garage' is big enough as it is, but Mr Maintenance Man is always one step ahead of me in these things, and is planning 'something' for that space. Well, I suppose all I can do now is watch that space and see what it'll eventually be. Life's never boring, hey?

Our next free camp was just across Norman River from Normanton. The visitor information centre takes your details and gives you a permit, and according to the ranger "in this way keeps track if someone goes missing". With this comment he was referring to the 6-meter saltie that is often seen sunbaking on the banks of the river. This camp has no facilities either, but it is only a short walk to town that has it all, for an outback price though.

Our latest free camping find is at Lake Corella, between Cloncurry and Mount Isa. Water levels in the dam are low, but it is a rather beautiful spot, particularly at sunset when the ranges in the background glow red. It seems to be a popular camping spot (although with no facilities), but there's plenty of room if you don't want to be part of the caravan village. And in this spot I managed to keep Mr Maintenance Man off duty, so he took the baker's role instead and baked some fresh buns for all of us to enjoy. 

Great stays in great places. But sometimes we don't just clean after ourselves but clean before ourselves too, unfortunately. Let's keep our camp sites clean for everyone to enjoy!

Home maintenance in the sticks.

Father and son lighting camp fire at Walker's Creek.

A freshwater crocodile sighting and photo by the girls.

Keeping our camp site clean, Norman River. 

Collecting wood for the camp fire.

Sunset picnic at Lake Corella.

Rumba rumba, Karumba! And the outback town of Normanton.

Well, Karumba might not be as vivacious as the dance style of rumba, but it does have its own charm. Especially if you like fishing, as it is rather exciting to see someone tackle a huge barramundi - or even better, hook one yourself. There's the beach, where the outback literally meets the sea, and it is quite a welcoming sight after days of travel in the dry, drought-battered outback. Not that you can go for a refreshing swim as you have to keep the saltwater crocodiles in mind, and they do indeed have a huge (biggest ever) reminder of the deadly salties in Normanton where you can meet Krys the Crocodile, and all 8.63 meters of it! Lucky for us, it had been shot by the greatest female crocodile hunter Krystina Pawlowski in 1957, and he's nothing but a gentle giant now.

There is, however, a very real 6 meter crocodile inhabiting the Norman River right in the township of Normanton though, and if you were to camp beside the river, the council takes up your name and other details just in case someone goes missing... On the other side of the bridge is no safer as it's sacred Aboriginal land (burial grounds), and from what I have heard here and elsewhere, you'd better stay away from this area, just to be safe. It might not be a saltie but the Rainbow Serpent that will swallow you, or the spirits of the old people might keep haunting you forever.

The road from Normanton to Karumba showcases different forms of life, no matter how dry it looks. Brolgas are everywhere, kangaroos crossing roads, wallabys inhabiting golf courses and caravan parks, goannas taking it slow and steady in the middle of the road even with road trains nearing. And some of the Mutton Hole wetlands with beautiful lily ponds have survived the drought, and are colouring the roadside green. The outback never ceases to surprise me.

- M -

Outback by the sea - this boat still looks a bit out of place here in Normanton. 

Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria welcoming visitors, with a whole lot of roadworks throughout town.

Karumba sunset on the Phantom.

The water might look inviting, but there's no way we'd plunge in!

We've got to try our luck on that famous Karumba barramundi!

Mr Goanna taking his time.

Without any rain in the past wet season, this is all that is left from the wetlands reaching from Normanton to Karumba.

Lilyponds beautify the otherwise dead scenery.

Got to get used to greeting these mammoths on these roads. Some of them full of cattle heading for Port of Karumba.

Brolgas can be seen everywhere in the gulf - such beautiful and gracious looking birds.

Normanton has a friendly feel...

...and some history.

Even Krys the Savannah King is friendly nowadays.

Streets of Normanton.

Norman river hiding its inhabitants, big and small...

New baby, new roads

Do you know how you just want to snuggle up with your new baby in the first days after birth? We've done plenty of that since baby was born last Sunday, but perhaps not in the most conventional setting. We've travelled, and travelled some more, all along breathing in the newborn smell of our baby AND some very camp fire smelling older children. We've had glorious sunny days and starlit nights on Savannah Way, and our baby has fitted in so well with the travelling routine of early morning starts and early afternoon stops. He sleeps like a  baby should, while we travel, and wants mum near for the rest of the day; which, of course, sets mum free of some household duties like cooking dinner and washing up. He's a smart boy.

We've loved the country hospitality of outback towns: it is something so refreshing and surprising at the same time. One feels like asking: "Have we met before?", when greeted by honest, friendly country folk. Croydon visitor information centre were very helpful with our enquiries about the region, and the caravan park seems to have a flat fee for the site without additional charge for each child. And that's always a bonus for us. Georgetown visitor centre informed us about the free swimming pool in town, which ended up being the best cooling break in the middle of the day for the kids, after travelling for a couple of hours. Even the recycling centre folk - we can't resist op shops - chatted away like old friends. And although we didn't stop for long in Ravenshoe, it offered us lots of friendly smiles and waves. We might miss the beach at times, but the outback definitely has its benefits!

Welcome to the outback!

Welcome new baby.

On the road to Croydon.

Croydon town

"Bank of NSW" in Croydon - got to love their sense of humour!

Mum and the six at Lake Belmore near Croydon.

Road to our bush camp near Georgetown.

Baby love beside the camp fire, Georgetown. 

Free swimming pool in Georgetown, a welcome oasis in the outback for our children anyway.

My hopeful crew dreaming of a nugget or two in the gold rush town of Georgetown.

I've never been here before but... somehow I get the feeling that nothing's changed...

And a very friendly country town it is! Thank you Georgetown.

We're on a road from somewhere... Possibly Mt Garnett.

Some kilometres left to cover.

Some places couldn't get hotter...

On the road to Ravenshoe: Windy Hill wind farm

Queensland's highest pub, Ravenshoe

Near Misty Mountain.

And the much dreaded (by mum!) mountain road had to be done again to get to the other side. Windy and steep. Near Millaa Millaa.

Road from Atherton, it's still green and lush, and produce plentyful. Near Malanda. 

Leaving smoky Atherton - the best birth place on the road.

And yet there were so many roads we couldn't take, so many places we couldn't see - but perhaps next time when we're around?